Wednesday 10 October 2012

Florence 4-7 October - Sue Tooke



This weekend was the second Emsworth Travel hosted trip and we chose to use BA flights leaving at 11am to Pisa and return at 22.35 hours to maximise the length of time there.  We arranged shared taxi pick ups and set off at 7am for Gatwick North Terminal.  BA flight was comfortable with good leg room and a snack on board this 2 hour flight.  We then took the one hour train journey to Florence (note - tickets have to be validated by machines before travel or you could face a fine). Taxis charge extra for luggage so this was 13.00 euros for 4 people plus 4 cases but 16 euros on the return!. The hotel we had chosen was the 3 star Pitti Palace with an excellent central location by the famous Ponte Vecchio bridge.  There was the added bonus of a breakfast room on the 6th floor with fantastic views over the city.  Here we also enjoyed a predinner drink in the evening before exploring the city.
View from breakfast room/bar on 6th floor of hotel

This is the view towards the Ponte Vecchio bridge and the Uffizi Gallery

On the day of arrival, we settled into the hotel and opted to have a snack at the bar on the 6th floor.  There is a small choice of pasta dishes all around 7 euros for a small plate of pasta (considered a bit expensive for the quantity served) and a reasonable bottle of wine for 18 euros.

On the second day, we opted to try and get as many of the main sights visited as possible so as to leave us the possibility of an excursion on the third day.  There are so many churches and museums in Florence that I researched the main sights beforehand to save time.  The Ufizzi (Gallery with the the largest and greatest treasures of Renaissance Art) and the Galleria D'ell Acadamia (displaying the original 5 metre marble statue of Michelangelo's David), together with the Duomo (largest cathedral in Europe with the cupola having the largest frescoed surface in the world) can have enormous queues and may be best to prebook to save queueing.  You can book online if you know you are travelling at peak times but this tends to be the most expensive booking fees - I saw prices of 21.50 euros online, but your hotel will book for you when you arrive; we chose to do this for the Ufizzi and we were able to get a reservation for midday for a price of 16 euros with a 5 euro booking fee (the earlier you book, the more choice you will have) This was worth the additional fee as the queue was very long.  The alternative would be to book a half day tour, to include a guide and some of the main attractions at a price around £50 bookable at the hotel.   The Ufizzi is very extensive and the set up is with several rooms with one entrance. The rooms recommended by the guide books were Room 10-14 for Botichellis 'Birth of Venus' and other works, Room 15 for Verrocchio's Baptism of Christ, Room 28 for Titian's Birth of Venus, 43 for Caravaggio including his 'Medusa'.
This is the Santa Croce church which is known as the Pantheon as it houses the tombs of most of Italy illustrious figures, such as Michelangelo and Gallileo and the richest medieval church in the city (founded in 1228).  Note shoulders should be covered and shorts are not accepted for entrance into the churches. Entrance fee 6 euros.
Inside the Santa Croce Church
This is the Showcase Square - the Piazza della Signoria with the best know cafe 'the Rivoire' with its ideal position opposite (though you pay for the position and its great coffees).  In the evening at Loggia dei Lanzi (adjoining this Piazza) musicians play daily and there is a good choice of bars and restaurants in the area.
In front of the Palazzo Vecchio, in the piazza della Signoria, there are several statues including a copy of Michaelango's David
This is a bronze of Cellini's Perseus and Medusa

This is the  Duomo (Dome) a great example of Gothic architecture - free entrance to the church but 11 euros to climb to the top of the dome.  The queues were not too bad when we chose to visit waiting approximately half an hour but you can pay a supplement to jump the queues.

Half way up you come into the top of the church and stand below the frescos.  You are able to appreciate the story painted more from this aspect.

Looking down into the church from the frescoed balcony

Views from the top of the dome are exceptional

You are able to get a 360 degree view of Florence from the top of the Dome

Florence itself has a great charm, with narrow streets and a feeling that time stood still and it remains, as a whole, as it has been for hundreds of years



Battistero (Baptistry) built in 6th or 7th century next to the Duomo

On day three, a couple of the group decided to travel to Siena by rail. Taxi from the hotel to the airport was 7.30 euros and rail ticket from the machine was 7.50 euros each way.  We were helped by a local (without request!) but at the end of the transaction, he expected to be paid 3 euros for the assistance given so beware of those offering to help. The train time was 1 hr 28 minutes and the centre is a fair walk so, as we were short of time, decided to take a taxi which was 7 euros each way. Siena is in the guide books as the most beautiful city in Tuscany.  It is much smaller that Florence and quite hilly but it has a lovely Piazza del Campo with Palazzo Pubblico and Tower which boasts unrivalled views over Siena. Here we enjoyed a leisurely lunch in the sunshine. This piazza is famous for the Palio, world famous bare-backed horse race which takes place in July and August. There is a Duomo, hidden gardens, tunnelled passages and secret piazzas. The weather was ideal for a city break with temperatures in the mid to upper 20s, some cloud, some sunshine. 




On the final day, we decided to view the Pitti Palace in the morning and head towards Piza after lunch.  We opted for a cappucino and a pastry - generally coffee was around 5 euros but we were shocked that the pastry also was 5 euros, not much less than the cost of a panini or similar sandwich.
This is the Pitti Palace built by the Medici family who ruled Florence for 300 years.  There are 3 museums here (you can buy dual entry for 6 euros) which house the entire Medici collection. There are 3 charges here.  One for Palace and Gardens (Boboli), one for Museums and another for buildings in the grounds or you can opt for a joint ticket.  Palace and Gardens is 10 euros

The gardens had great views over the city
Boboli Gardens

Gardens looking toward Palace and Florence beyond

We arrived at Pisa Centrale (which took approx 1 and a half hours on a slow train) and the leaning tower was a good 15-20 minute walk from the train station.  It is possible to leave your luggage at the train station at a cost of 4 euros per piece of luggage which we took advantage of. The entrance to the leaning tower was 15 euros which was expensive for what it was but there were good views over Pisa from the top.


One of the views from the top of the leaning tower. 

It was a strange sensation climbing the tower as you spiral up the stairs leaning one way on one side and towards the other on the opposite side!

We ate at one of the restaurants in the vicinity which was good and not too bad value (house wine not so good) before taking the train to the airport for our return journey.

In general, it was a thoroughly enjoyable city break and one of my favourite cities.  Entrance fees are expensive in general so, if you want to enjoy a fair number of the museums and buildings, you need to take lots of spending money.  The restaurants in general add a charge for sitting which is at a premium outside but you just get used to that.  Food generally was of a good standard and you will pay more in the restaurants in the best positions to those in the back streets.  You can cover most of Florence in 3 days as everything is in walking distance but 4 days would make it a more leisurely trip.  In all instances, where there are queues, there is the option of paying a supplement to go to the front - even while queueing there are people offering you the chance to jump the queue for a supplement so there are several options open to you.  Money exchange in Florence is poor as the rate give in the uk was 1.2 which would mean £40 would give 48 euros, where in Rome I got 36 euros and in Pisa 52 euros for the same amount!

For more information or booking, call Sue, Gill and Deb on 01243377211

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